Iceland Safari

You Fringing the Arctic Circle Iceland 4200 kilometers from New York and only 2500 from Europe provides a natural stopover between these two continents Most visitors arrived by air at Keflavik about 50 kilometers from Reykjavik the capital Reykjavik the northernmost capital in the world is home for almost half of the country's total population of 210 ,000 Iceland's development began in 1944 after receiving its independence from Denmark Today the Icelanders have every modern convenience and enjoy one of the highest standards of living in Europe Modern apartments designed by Icelandic architects are using fewer imported materials For Iceland is becoming more self -sufficient Concrete construction is required by law because of possible slight earthquakes This city is a delightful blending of old and new a metropolis of statuary Modern and quaint churches Cultural institutions Stately government buildings Parks and playgrounds To really appreciate Iceland join Ulfar Jacobson and his crew on a safari across the uninhabited interior Danes Dutch Germans English and Austrian and one American will know each other and Iceland much better within the next two weeks How do I be on the Sun a teacher is our Icelandic German and English speaking guide Each morning he oriented us about our routing and adventures of the day This day's journey takes us by query the Gedi and on to Thor's mark to our first campsite At query the Gedi meaning the Valley of Hot Springs there are numerous steam jets Geothermal activity is common in many parts of the country The first greenhouse in Iceland heated with hot springs was built in 1924 Today this thermal heat is utilized in hundreds of hot houses where many kinds of vegetables fruits and flowers are grown throughout the year Our encounter with this narrow bridge was only a preview of coming attractions They would become obstacle courses a bit later At our first lunch stop we realized we would be able to enjoy the view of the Gedi as a black baguette for the rest of the trip Each plastic bag contained a plate bowl cup and stainless steel utensils Yes, they have natural arches in Iceland too Lunches consisted of cold meat sandwiches tomatoes cucumbers tea coffee and sometimes hard -cooked eggs and cookies It is a delight to relax in the bright sun enjoy conversation and our first Icelandic horses By mid -afternoon we near the Valley of Thor's mark Visitors are surprised that only 11 percent of the country is glaciated This ice flow reveals a history of winter snows and ash -laden winds As these massive ice falls melt gray debris -laden lakes or rivers develop from beneath the tongue Our safari has two large four -wheel drive buses and one kitchen bus Only skilled drivers with the proper equipment should attempt to ford these rivers We always look forward to a hike in order to break the hours of riding There is a rewarding view at every bend of these hidden canyons Some of us searched for interesting rocks or wildflowers Our second bus has no problems in traversing this watery roadway By early evening we arrive at campsite Sleeping equipment is issued immediately Then it's off to locate a level area on which to pitch the tent It didn't take the amateurs long to learn to face the opening of the tent away from the wind I thought someone was twisting a cow's tail But it's only Ellie filling her air mattress The valley of Thorsmark is situated near two glaciers and offers climbers some challenging terrain to conquer After a day of strenuous activity everyone is ready for the hot evening meal Simple but always delicious and in quantities unlimited It's everyone for himself at dishwashing time Scalding hot water makes the task easy After a good night's rest, it's light 24 hours a day during the summer in Iceland We head for Elkjav and Landmanalager Within an hour after leaving camp while going up a small incline we broke an axle Until now we didn't realize just how versatile our driver and guide could be They had several axles to spare and made the repair within 20 minutes The first of many waterfalls we will see is very dignified and conservative The arch of Dyrrolegi is a The arch of Dyrrolegi is the southernmost tip of Iceland Along these rugged cliffs are the nests of the kittywakes and many other seabirds Hundreds of years ago when there was famine in the country the eggs of these birds kept the people from starving Knots and turnstones may also be observed in the area The mur in his formal attire resembles the penguin in stature Oh there are other species here also, the lovebird for example Seldom did we retire before midnight or one o 'clock in the morning It was great fun having our international conversations or singing in camp Neatness is next to godliness Perhaps shined shoes can give one a lift too Driving skill is the order of the day on this trail to the area of Elkjav Iceland sits astride the northern end of the unstable Atlantic rift In fact since the turn of the century there have been 14 volcanic eruptions on this restless island It is certainly a land of fire, ice and water with many hundreds of waterfalls We will see only a few of the most spectacular ones No worry about drinking this crystal clear water, much of it is filtered through the lava formations With boots on they will not pollute the stream while soothing their aching feet It is not wise to travel in the interior without four wheel drive vehicles equipped with two way radios And it is best to travel in a group of two or more vehicles for safety sake We towed this family to a location where they could get repairs more easily One of the most fantastic areas is Landmanalogur The river valley is ringed with rhyolite mountains displaying a wealth of color Thermal water emerges under the lava flow and mixes with cold springs So it is a luxury for the traveler to relax in the warm water among the grassy banks During the next few hours we all took advantage of the first chance for a bath A swim does play havoc with one's makeup We could hardly believe our eyes when we saw this car jockey deliberately drive into the deep river Perhaps he was trying to prove something Whatever it was, he failed A brave soul to the rescue Oh, was that water cold The trail from Landmanalogur to Hussabik passes through some of the most desolate area in Iceland Yet there is a stark beauty Yet there is a stark beauty On this stretch of road we had our second encounter with a narrow bridge This really takes driving skill and sometimes a layer of paint from the bus The kitchen bus always proceeds us to a suitable location for lunch or our campsite at night So a meal is waiting when the two passenger buses arrive Little time is wasted in the attack on the food tables Thanks to our talented Icelandic cooks and crew we enjoyed delicious food After searching the landscape Trudy discovered our goal Dozens of us started the long, long trek to the most popular building in sight Everyone patiently waited their turn to enjoy the view through the window Yes, the fresh air and activity does make one rather sleepy There are more waterfalls per square kilometer in Iceland than in any other country The interesting feature of this falls are the extensive basaltic formations around it These columnar structures are always hexagonally shaped, but it is quite rare to see them curved We never knew what to expect at our rest stops Several of our group were always ready for horseplay whenever the opportunity presented itself The Góðafoss waterfall I would claim that Góðafoss is the third most spectacular waterfall in the country Góðafoss means waterfall of the gods For in the year 1000, pagan idols of the nobleman were thrown into these falls as a demonstration to the all -thing assembly On that day, Christianity was proclaimed the official religion In one of the peaceful fjords of the north is the small fishing town of Húsavík Its most famous landmark is the old church, completed in 1907 Made of wood, it is a good example of the style of Mr.

Olufsen, one of the best known architects of that time Iceland has a balance of payments problem, importing more than it exports 75 % of the exports consist of fish or fish products Approximately 14 % of the population work permanently in the fishing industry And a much larger percentage during the summer months when all age groups are employed These men are loading barrels of caviar for export We camped one night in Húsavík The next morning there was great excitement down at the docks A bealed whale had been caught a few hours earlier The mouth is lined with baleen or whale bone, through which plankton and small fish are strained It is cut into steaks and roasts costing about 60 cents per pound Whale meat tastes like neither beef nor fish Its flavor is difficult to describe Our routing the next few days leads us into the spectacular areas of Detafoss, Askja and Mívatn On the tip of this peninsula there is a colony of puffin These seabirds, which nest in burrows in the tundra, swim underwater for many seconds to feed on tiny minnows During the summer they are sold in meat shops and are quite a delicacy After another busy day we are anxious to make camp and check out the facilities We jokingly call these Sputniks.

They are on the pad and ready to launch After pitching our tents, some of the brave souls wash in the icy stream This can really stimulate one's circulation And as if they didn't have enough exercise for the day, the boys just had to play some soccer Or at least get warmed up for the game soon to start We have been on the trail five days, so I began asking my companions what impressed them about Iceland Edith Fox from Austria told me I enjoy being by myself in the quietness and solitude of the countryside Then I can meditate or explore these things that interest me without the distractions of others It's like being in another world Crossing a featureless plain we came to Dethafoss, the largest falls in the country for volume of water It is rambunctious and reveals nature in a wild and turbulent mood Foss in Icelandic means falls One of the most picturesque campsites is at Heðurribe, known as the Queen of the Mountains Havlur is oh so neat, shaving about every other morning Washing or bathing in the cold streams is a sure way to wake up fast It was suggested we eat the hot oatmeal for breakfast this morning, as there will be much hiking today After two hours of jiggling in our buses over a primitive road, we were eager to stretch our legs This remote canyon is a great place to do it Formed by volcanic eruptions, it also offered a bit of a challenge for some A helping hand is always appreciated at times like these The waterfall in this box canyon left something to be desired compared to the others we have seen Because of a late and cool summer, snow had not melted in the higher elevations As we neared the Askja crater area, the lead bus became stuck, but not for long With the use of four -wheel drive, the snow was not melted With the help of some passengers and the skill of our driver, we made it through in about 20 minutes For a while, there was some concern as to whether we could continue on As on both sides of the snow field, there was an impassable jagged lava flow After the first bus blazed the trail, the second made it without difficulty After all of this exertion, we were ready for lunch again A 14 -year -old Danish boy traveling with his father was the youngest member of our group Due to a terrific volcanic eruption in 1961, we can explore the strange lunar landscape of the Askja craters An hour's walk brings us to a breathtakingly clear lake The Askja crater area was chosen by NASA as one of the training grounds for the American astronauts for their moon landing program Only the more adventurous traveler can enjoy this remote area My interview with Heinz from Germany was rather enlightening as to his inner feelings There is something for all types of people here, not only for the botanists and zoologists, but for everybody A person can get out of Iceland what he chooses He can be himself without concern about what others may think I enjoy the freedom, the grandness, and the whiteness of it all It is an experience I have not had before in my life, and one that I will remember forever Once again, we came across a traveler in need of help One must always be willing to lend a helping hand in this wilderness Here is another example of the need to use four -wheel drive vehicles in the interior Usually after lunch, there is time for a rest period So we always gather into groups and have interesting conversations while enjoying the glorious sunshine Then, from one of the old farm sod huts came a Danish Viking Well, not really.

He is one of our companions gone native Now Miskog is a well -known hot springs and sulfur pit region Dozens of bubbling mud pools may be approached with caution A fair warning is given, but even then, some careless visitors get too close and step through a thin crust that surrounds many of these mud pools Bizarre lava formations are typical of the many attractions at Mivaten, a delightful resort area in the north The word Mivaten means lake of the midges These tiny insects hang like a cloud on warm, still days A wise man keeps his mouth shut here Pseudo -craters are created by lava flowing over marshland The trapped steam explodes, causing these false craters to form It may appear we spent most of our time eating and resting We really didn't.

There was much activity between these stops Salmon and trout fishing is excellent Sportsmen head for the rivers about June 10th when the season opens These trout have pink meat and the flavor you will long remember Near the eastern shore of Mivaten is a conglomeration of lava known as Dimmiburgi, or the Black Castles While walking the many pathways, you may start believing some of the Icelandic folk tales about trolls, giants, ghosts, and hidden elf people About 2 ,000 years ago, this lava issued from a nearby volcano and created these fantastic formations When bird watching, it's best to be alone A red wing prefers the cover of scrub growth I then observed the common snipe The ringed plover didn't appreciate my presence, but her chick didn't mind a bit This tartmigan wore its best summer finery The Merlin, a hawk -like bird, is a wary creature In the lake, there are a number of Barrel's Golden Eye ducks found nowhere else in Europe Then a northern phthalo rope swam by The whupper swan is a common breeding bird in Iceland, for they do not migrate Only in Iceland do they pump diatomaceous earth from the 3 ,000 -year -old lake bottom to a nearby plant that uses geothermal power In other parts of the world, the diatoms come from dry lake beds The microscopic diatoms are processed with sulfuric acid and are used for filtration of foods, pharmaceuticals, beer, and wine From 50 to 70 people are employed in this factory Over 23 ,000 tons of this material is exported annually to 20 countries in Europe and Africa As we head for home, we'll stop to see the city of Akereri, then onto Gullfoss, the Geyser Basin, and Thingvættler But first, between Mivarton and Akereri is one of the old turf farms dating from 1894 Several of these are now folk museums, with interesting exhibits from the days when the farmers had many hardships There was usually a church close by for the people living in the immediate area Some of these are still used by local residents Akereri, with a population of over 10 ,000, is the hub of activity in Northern Iceland A mecca for tourists in the summer and an excellent ski resort area during the winter The largest cooperative in the country was founded here almost 90 years ago Akereri is also the location of some of the major manufacturing companies The state church dominates the landscape and seems to protect the city The botanical garden is one of Akereri's main attractions When the sun comes out, so do the Icelanders The women and children do all they can to soak up every delightful ray while it lasts The brilliant colors do impress most people So I asked Anka from Holland about her observations It is difficult to put in towards Bab, but I'm amazed at the extensive fertile valleys and farmlands I'm also surprised to see so many forested areas I had been told there were very few trees here The colors of the hundreds of plants and tiny wildflowers are just gorgeous The clearness of the air is unbelievable too.

I really love this country This incredible country is a land of contrasts Hundreds of years ago, it was common for polar ice to float into these northern fjords Perhaps bringing along a polar bear Today these flows are a rare sight On two occasions we camped in towns where bathing facilities were available At other times we had to rely on nature's hot pools The water varies from comfortably warm to just plain hot And the cold air is something to remember Prior to leaving our last camp, I asked Mrs.

Metcalf from England what impressed her about Iceland I'm absolutely amazed at the crystal clear atmosphere I only wish it was this good around London With no pollution you can actually see forever and ever And the colors are so brilliant and constantly changing throughout the day I'd like to come back and spend more time here Much larger and heavier vehicles are now using the older bridges So for safety's sake we walk across Within a few months this obstacle will no longer exist For each year more roads are constructed and bridges improved or replaced Few of the roads are for high speed travel At first I thought my friends were attacking me with boulders But I soon learned that it is the custom for all travelers to toss a rock onto this pyramid as a farewell to the highlands The idea was started by Ulfar Jacobson and continued by others Characteristic of the ever changing landscape is Gullfoss or the Golden Falls Perhaps the most spectacular in the country It is estimated that only 8 % of the usable hydroelectric power in the land has been harnessed In South Iceland is the basin of the Great Geysir from which the international word geysir is derived The original that erupted to a height of 54 meters has been inactive in recent years Its little brother nearby is continually trying to make a show It is difficult to know just when it will erupt So one must have his camera at the ready and be fleet -footed to make the escape when it does spout If left unleashed this may soon be an Icelandic hot dog Prior to a good eruption the water wells up as a warning A fairly good eruption will take place about every five to seven minutes and is a very short duration The National Park of Thingvetlar not only has great natural beauty, it has historical significance as well Here in 930 AD the Icelandic all thing, the oldest living democracy was established It allowed the people to follow any leader for representation in the new Icelandic free state From Lóðberg, meaning the rock of law, the law speaker was elected for three years His duty was to recite the laws of the land to the people gathered there Ruins of sod huts used by early dignitaries still are visible After 13 exciting and fun -filled days we arrive back in Reykjavík, a bit on the tired side On hand to greet us is Uffar Jacobson, organizer of this happy holiday He was glad to learn that all of his guests had a great time One still seems to be enjoying himself Whatever your natural interests may be, Iceland can fulfill them It is easy to visit this fantabulous island, but difficult to pack and leave You will want to return to this haven of peace, of proud and independent people And stand in awe before its spectacular manifestations For only then will you discover that in reality this is a nice land and not an ice land