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You

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Fringing the Arctic Circle

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Iceland

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4200 kilometers from New York and only 2500 from Europe provides a natural stopover between these two continents

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Most visitors arrived by air at Keflavik about 50 kilometers from Reykjavik the capital

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Reykjavik the northernmost capital in the world is home for almost half of the country's total population of

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210,000

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Iceland's development began in 1944 after receiving its independence from Denmark

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Today the Icelanders have every modern convenience and enjoy one of the highest standards of living in Europe

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Modern apartments designed by Icelandic architects are using fewer imported materials

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For Iceland is becoming more self-sufficient

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Concrete construction is required by law because of possible slight earthquakes

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This city is a delightful blending of old and new a

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metropolis of statuary

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Modern and quaint churches

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Cultural institutions

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Stately government buildings

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Parks and playgrounds

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To really appreciate Iceland join Ulfar Jacobson and his crew on a safari across the uninhabited interior

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Danes Dutch Germans English and

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Austrian and one American will know each other and Iceland much better within the next two weeks

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How do I be on the Sun a teacher is our Icelandic German and English speaking guide

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Each morning he oriented us about our routing and adventures of the day

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This day's journey takes us by query the Gedi and on to Thor's mark to our first campsite

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At query the Gedi meaning the Valley of Hot Springs there are numerous steam jets

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Geothermal activity is common in many parts of the country

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The first greenhouse in Iceland heated with hot springs was built in 1924

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Today this thermal heat is utilized in hundreds of hot houses

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where many kinds of vegetables fruits and flowers are grown throughout the year

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Our encounter with this narrow bridge was only a preview of coming attractions

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They would become obstacle courses a bit later

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At our first lunch stop we realized we would be able to enjoy the view of the Gedi

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as a black baguette for the rest of the trip

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Each plastic bag contained a plate bowl cup and stainless steel utensils

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Yes, they have natural arches in Iceland too

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Lunches consisted of cold meat sandwiches tomatoes cucumbers tea coffee

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and sometimes hard-cooked eggs and cookies

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It is a delight to relax in the bright sun enjoy conversation and our first Icelandic horses

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By mid-afternoon we near the Valley of Thor's mark

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Visitors are surprised that only 11 percent of the country is glaciated

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This ice flow reveals a history of winter snows and ash-laden winds

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As these massive ice falls melt gray debris-laden lakes or rivers develop from beneath the tongue

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Our safari has two large four-wheel drive buses and one kitchen bus

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Only skilled drivers with the proper equipment should attempt to ford these rivers

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We always look forward to a hike in order to break the hours of riding

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There is a rewarding view at every bend of these hidden canyons

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Some of us searched for interesting rocks or wildflowers

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Our second bus has no problems in traversing this watery roadway

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By early evening we arrive at campsite

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Sleeping equipment is issued immediately

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Then it's off to locate a level area on which to pitch the tent

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It didn't take the amateurs long to learn to face the opening of the tent away from the wind

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I thought someone was twisting a cow's tail

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But it's only Ellie filling her air mattress

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The valley of Thorsmark is situated near two glaciers and offers climbers some challenging terrain to conquer

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After a day of strenuous activity everyone is ready for the hot evening meal

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Simple but always delicious and in quantities unlimited

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It's everyone for himself at dishwashing time

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Scalding hot water makes the task easy

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After a good night's rest, it's light 24 hours a day during the summer in Iceland

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We head for Elkjav and Landmanalager

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Within an hour after leaving camp while going up a small incline we broke an axle

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Until now we didn't realize just how versatile our driver and guide could be

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They had several axles to spare and made the repair within 20 minutes

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The first of many waterfalls we will see is very dignified and conservative

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The arch of Dyrrolegi is a

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The arch of Dyrrolegi is the southernmost tip of Iceland

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Along these rugged cliffs are the nests of the kittywakes and many other seabirds

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Hundreds of years ago when there was famine in the country the eggs of these birds kept the people from starving

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Knots and turnstones may also be observed in the area

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The mur in his formal attire resembles the penguin in stature

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Oh there are other species here also, the lovebird for example

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Seldom did we retire before midnight or one o'clock in the morning

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It was great fun having our international conversations or singing in camp

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Neatness is next to godliness

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Perhaps shined shoes can give one a lift too

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Driving skill is the order of the day on this trail to the area of Elkjav

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Iceland sits astride the northern end of the unstable Atlantic rift

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In fact since the turn of the century there have been 14 volcanic eruptions on this restless island

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It is certainly a land of fire, ice and water with many hundreds of waterfalls

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We will see only a few of the most spectacular ones

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No worry about drinking this crystal clear water, much of it is filtered through the lava formations

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With boots on they will not pollute the stream while soothing their aching feet

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It is not wise to travel in the interior without four wheel drive vehicles equipped with two way radios

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And it is best to travel in a group of two or more vehicles for safety sake

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We towed this family to a location where they could get repairs more easily

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One of the most fantastic areas is Landmanalogur

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The river valley is ringed with rhyolite mountains displaying a wealth of color

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Thermal water emerges under the lava flow and mixes with cold springs

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So it is a luxury for the traveler to relax in the warm water among the grassy banks

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During the next few hours we all took advantage of the first chance for a bath

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A swim does play havoc with one's makeup

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We could hardly believe our eyes when we saw this car jockey deliberately drive into the deep river

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Perhaps he was trying to prove something

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Whatever it was, he failed

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A brave soul to the rescue

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Oh, was that water cold

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The trail from Landmanalogur to Hussabik passes through some of the most desolate area in Iceland

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Yet there is a stark beauty

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Yet there is a stark beauty

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On this stretch of road we had our second encounter with a narrow bridge

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This really takes driving skill and sometimes a layer of paint from the bus

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The kitchen bus always proceeds us to a suitable location for lunch or our campsite at night

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So a meal is waiting when the two passenger buses arrive

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Little time is wasted in the attack on the food tables

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Thanks to our talented Icelandic cooks and crew we enjoyed delicious food

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After searching the landscape Trudy discovered our goal

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Dozens of us started the long, long trek to the most popular building in sight

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Everyone patiently waited their turn to enjoy the view through the window

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Yes, the fresh air and activity does make one rather sleepy

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There are more waterfalls per square kilometer in Iceland than in any other country

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The interesting feature of this falls are the extensive basaltic formations around it

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These columnar structures are always hexagonally shaped, but it is quite rare to see them curved

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We never knew what to expect at our rest stops

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Several of our group were always ready for horseplay whenever the opportunity presented itself

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The Góðafoss waterfall

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I would claim that Góðafoss is the third most spectacular waterfall in the country

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Góðafoss means waterfall of the gods

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For in the year 1000, pagan idols of the nobleman were thrown into these falls as a demonstration to the all-thing assembly

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On that day, Christianity was proclaimed the official religion

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In one of the peaceful fjords of the north is the small fishing town of Húsavík

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Its most famous landmark is the old church, completed in 1907

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Made of wood, it is a good example of the style of Mr. Olufsen, one of the best known architects of that time

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Iceland has a balance of payments problem, importing more than it exports

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75% of the exports consist of fish or fish products

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Approximately 14% of the population work permanently in the fishing industry

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And a much larger percentage during the summer months when all age groups are employed

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These men are loading barrels of caviar for export

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We camped one night in Húsavík

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The next morning there was great excitement down at the docks

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A bealed whale had been caught a few hours earlier

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The mouth is lined with baleen or whale bone, through which plankton and small fish are strained

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It is cut into steaks and roasts costing about 60 cents per pound

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Whale meat tastes like neither beef nor fish

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Its flavor is difficult to describe

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Our routing the next few days leads us into the spectacular areas of Detafoss, Askja and Mívatn

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On the tip of this peninsula there is a colony of puffin

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These seabirds, which nest in burrows in the tundra, swim underwater for many seconds to feed on tiny minnows

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During the summer they are sold in meat shops and are quite a delicacy

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After another busy day we are anxious to make camp and check out the facilities

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We jokingly call these Sputniks. They are on the pad and ready to launch

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After pitching our tents, some of the brave souls wash in the icy stream

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This can really stimulate one's circulation

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And as if they didn't have enough exercise for the day, the boys just had to play some soccer

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Or at least get warmed up for the game soon to start

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We have been on the trail five days, so I began asking my companions what impressed them about Iceland

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Edith Fox from Austria told me

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I enjoy being by myself in the quietness and solitude of the countryside

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Then I can meditate or explore these things that interest me without the distractions of others

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It's like being in another world

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Crossing a featureless plain we came to Dethafoss, the largest falls in the country for volume of water

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It is rambunctious and reveals nature in a wild and turbulent mood

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Foss in Icelandic means falls

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One of the most picturesque campsites is at Heðurribe, known as the Queen of the Mountains

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Havlur is oh so neat, shaving about every other morning

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Washing or bathing in the cold streams is a sure way to wake up fast

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It was suggested we eat the hot oatmeal for breakfast this morning, as there will be much hiking today

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After two hours of jiggling in our buses over a primitive road, we were eager to stretch our legs

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This remote canyon is a great place to do it

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Formed by volcanic eruptions, it also offered a bit of a challenge for some

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A helping hand is always appreciated at times like these

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The waterfall in this box canyon left something to be desired compared to the others we have seen

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Because of a late and cool summer, snow had not melted in the higher elevations

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As we neared the Askja crater area, the lead bus became stuck, but not for long

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With the use of four-wheel drive, the snow was not melted

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With the help of some passengers and the skill of our driver, we made it through in about 20 minutes

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For a while, there was some concern as to whether we could continue on

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As on both sides of the snow field, there was an impassable jagged lava flow

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After the first bus blazed the trail, the second made it without difficulty

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After all of this exertion, we were ready for lunch again

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A 14-year-old Danish boy traveling with his father was the youngest member of our group

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Due to a terrific volcanic eruption in 1961, we can explore the strange lunar landscape of the Askja craters

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An hour's walk brings us to a breathtakingly clear lake

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The Askja crater area was chosen by NASA as one of the training grounds for the American astronauts for their moon landing program

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Only the more adventurous traveler can enjoy this remote area

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My interview with Heinz from Germany was rather enlightening as to his inner feelings

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There is something for all types of people here, not only for the botanists and zoologists, but for everybody

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A person can get out of Iceland what he chooses

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He can be himself without concern about what others may think

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I enjoy the freedom, the grandness, and the whiteness of it all

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It is an experience I have not had before in my life, and one that I will remember forever

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Once again, we came across a traveler in need of help

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One must always be willing to lend a helping hand in this wilderness

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Here is another example of the need to use four-wheel drive vehicles in the interior

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Usually after lunch, there is time for a rest period

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So we always gather into groups and have interesting conversations while enjoying the glorious sunshine

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Then, from one of the old farm sod huts came a Danish Viking

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Well, not really. He is one of our companions gone native

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Now Miskog is a well-known hot springs and sulfur pit region

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Dozens of bubbling mud pools may be approached with caution

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A fair warning is given, but even then, some careless visitors get too close

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and step through a thin crust that surrounds many of these mud pools

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Bizarre lava formations are typical of the many attractions at Mivaten, a delightful resort area in the north

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The word Mivaten means lake of the midges

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These tiny insects hang like a cloud on warm, still days

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A wise man keeps his mouth shut here

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Pseudo-craters are created by lava flowing over marshland

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The trapped steam explodes, causing these false craters to form

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It may appear we spent most of our time eating and resting

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We really didn't. There was much activity between these stops

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Salmon and trout fishing is excellent

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Sportsmen head for the rivers about June 10th when the season opens

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These trout have pink meat and the flavor you will long remember

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Near the eastern shore of Mivaten is a conglomeration of lava known as Dimmiburgi, or the Black Castles

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While walking the many pathways, you may start believing some of the Icelandic folk tales about trolls, giants, ghosts, and hidden elf people

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About 2,000 years ago, this lava issued from a nearby volcano and created these fantastic formations

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When bird watching, it's best to be alone

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A red wing prefers the cover of scrub growth

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I then observed the common snipe

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The ringed plover didn't appreciate my presence, but her chick didn't mind a bit

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This tartmigan wore its best summer finery

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The Merlin, a hawk-like bird, is a wary creature

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In the lake, there are a number of Barrel's Golden Eye ducks found nowhere else in Europe

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Then a northern phthalo rope swam by

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The whupper swan is a common breeding bird in Iceland, for they do not migrate

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Only in Iceland do they pump diatomaceous earth from the 3,000-year-old lake bottom to a nearby plant that uses geothermal power

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In other parts of the world, the diatoms come from dry lake beds

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The microscopic diatoms are processed with sulfuric acid and are used for filtration of foods, pharmaceuticals, beer, and wine

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From 50 to 70 people are employed in this factory

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Over 23,000 tons of this material is exported annually to 20 countries in Europe and Africa

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As we head for home, we'll stop to see the city of Akereri, then onto Gullfoss, the Geyser Basin, and Thingvættler

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But first, between Mivarton and Akereri is one of the old turf farms dating from 1894

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Several of these are now folk museums, with interesting exhibits from the days when the farmers had many hardships

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There was usually a church close by for the people living in the immediate area

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Some of these are still used by local residents

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Akereri, with a population of over 10,000, is the hub of activity in Northern Iceland

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A mecca for tourists in the summer and an excellent ski resort area during the winter

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The largest cooperative in the country was founded here almost 90 years ago

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Akereri is also the location of some of the major manufacturing companies

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The state church dominates the landscape and seems to protect the city

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The botanical garden is one of Akereri's main attractions

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When the sun comes out, so do the Icelanders

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The women and children do all they can to soak up every delightful ray while it lasts

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The brilliant colors do impress most people

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So I asked Anka from Holland about her observations

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It is difficult to put in towards Bab, but I'm amazed at the extensive fertile valleys and farmlands

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I'm also surprised to see so many forested areas

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I had been told there were very few trees here

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The colors of the hundreds of plants and tiny wildflowers are just gorgeous

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The clearness of the air is unbelievable too. I really love this country

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This incredible country is a land of contrasts

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Hundreds of years ago, it was common for polar ice to float into these northern fjords

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Perhaps bringing along a polar bear

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Today these flows are a rare sight

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On two occasions we camped in towns where bathing facilities were available

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At other times we had to rely on nature's hot pools

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The water varies from comfortably warm to just plain hot

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And the cold air is something to remember

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Prior to leaving our last camp, I asked Mrs. Metcalf from England what impressed her about Iceland

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I'm absolutely amazed at the crystal clear atmosphere

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I only wish it was this good around London

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With no pollution you can actually see forever and ever

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And the colors are so brilliant and constantly changing throughout the day

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I'd like to come back and spend more time here

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Much larger and heavier vehicles are now using the older bridges

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So for safety's sake we walk across

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Within a few months this obstacle will no longer exist

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For each year more roads are constructed and bridges improved or replaced

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Few of the roads are for high speed travel

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At first I thought my friends were attacking me with boulders

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But I soon learned that it is the custom for all travelers to toss a rock onto this pyramid as a farewell to the highlands

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The idea was started by Ulfar Jacobson and continued by others

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Characteristic of the ever changing landscape is Gullfoss or the Golden Falls

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Perhaps the most spectacular in the country

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It is estimated that only 8% of the usable hydroelectric power in the land has been harnessed

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In South Iceland is the basin of the Great Geysir from which the international word geysir is derived

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The original that erupted to a height of 54 meters has been inactive in recent years

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Its little brother nearby is continually trying to make a show

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It is difficult to know just when it will erupt

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So one must have his camera at the ready and be fleet-footed to make the escape when it does spout

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If left unleashed this may soon be an Icelandic hot dog

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Prior to a good eruption the water wells up as a warning

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A fairly good eruption will take place about every five to seven minutes and is a very short duration

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The National Park of Thingvetlar not only has great natural beauty, it has historical significance as well

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Here in 930 AD the Icelandic all thing, the oldest living democracy was established

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It allowed the people to follow any leader for representation in the new Icelandic free state

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From Lóðberg, meaning the rock of law, the law speaker was elected for three years

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His duty was to recite the laws of the land to the people gathered there

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Ruins of sod huts used by early dignitaries still are visible

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After 13 exciting and fun-filled days we arrive back in Reykjavík, a bit on the tired side

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On hand to greet us is Uffar Jacobson, organizer of this happy holiday

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He was glad to learn that all of his guests had a great time

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One still seems to be enjoying himself

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Whatever your natural interests may be, Iceland can fulfill them

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It is easy to visit this fantabulous island, but difficult to pack and leave

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You will want to return to this haven of peace, of proud and independent people

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And stand in awe before its spectacular manifestations

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For only then will you discover that in reality this is a nice land and not an ice land